Sand down the old Sikaflex (There is no need to remove it all)

Remove any dust etc.

Place the OLD rim into the deck & Wipe some furniture or car polish around the area to the side of the rim. ( This makes it easier to remove any glue which is squeezed out of the sides later. Make sure NO polish gets on the surface where the new rim will sit !!!)

Apply a bead of Sikaflex around the area the rim will fit.

Press the new rim into position, and move it around a little to make sure it is bedded in properly. Do NOT apply too much pressure, as this will squeeze out all the glue.

Too clean off the excess glue, you have two options.
Wipe it off straight away using clothes (MESSY !!!)
Wait until it is dry (About 15 Hours) and trim the inside with a Stanley Blade & the outside with a BLUNT Chisel. Use some solvent to clean any stuck glue.

Glue – Sikaflex 252

Important: The new rim needs to be PRIMED before fixing with:

Sika Primer 206 G+P


Grind off all the old Gel from the inside of the cockpit.

Wipe clean all the surfaces with Solvent (Acetone etc.)

With the boat upright on stands, place the new rim in position and hold down with masking tape.

Make sure there is sufficient gap underneath the rim for the spraydeck (use pieces of foam underneath rim to get the right gap).

Turn boat upside down.

Fixing Rim: Fill the space between the cockpit rim and deck. We use a mixture of Gelcoat/Pre-Gel/Catalyst or you could use a Methacrylate Adhesive e.g. Plexus MA300 or Adekit A300.

Once filled, check under the rim for any excess material which may have leaked out of any gaps and remove whilst wet.

If using Gel coat, leave to harden overnight. If using glue allow a couple of hours to fully harden.

  1. Using an ALLEN KEY, undo the Grub Screw (Anticlockwise) in the Skeg Slider at the side of the boat. Only undo it enough so that it no longer grips the old wire, not all the way out.


Equipment needed: Allen key set, hand router, acetone, adequate safety equipment, 40 grit sandpaper, wax, gel and hardener, resin and hardener, fibre glass matting, marker pen, masking tape, brushes.


Some earlier Kari-Tek plastic skeg boxes have come partially loose and started to leak. This procedure is for fixing the leak and making the skeg box to hull joint stronger to prevent any future leaks.


The hardest part of a repair to the surface of a coloured fibre glass boat is matching the colour shade. Even "factory colours" don't match exactly after a boat has been in the sun for a few years. The best way to match the colour of your boat is to use a colour match gel coat kit. (Internet search engine tip: Enter colour match gel coat kit + your area).


Never try to gel coat repair shallow scratches. A thin layer of gel coat isn't structurally strong enough to prevent itself cracking off. Either deepen the scratch using a small blade or grinder, or leave it. Unless the scratch goes through to the glass matting it won't harm the boat.


From the inside:

  • Sand the area around the hole. Remove any dust and clean the surface using acetone.
  • Cut out 4 pieces of chopped strand mat that overlap the hole by about 2″ (50 mm) all the way round.


If the leak isn't obvious you need to increase the pressure in the boat to force air out of the leak. You can do this by taping a large plastic bag around the hatch rim of the suspect compartment. Then make a hole in the bag and use it as a bellows to increase the pressure in the compartment. Your boat may have a tiny hole drilled in the bulkhead to equalise pressure, you will then need to tape this up from the inside of the compartment you are testing.